Pasta Salad with Peas and Parmesan

 

Because there are too many pasta salads to be had, here is the first of many this year, a springy pasta salad. It’s got peas (frozen are fine), hunks of parmesan and lots of black pepper. It’s good warm, it’s good cold, it’s good fresh and it’s good old. God, it feels good to rhyme. This one lives more in fresh, lemony, crunchy, springy celebration territory than pickled pepper olive antipasto territory where pasta salad seems to have been born. It’s especially great the next day, but I also ate it immediately for dinner last night with some fish on the side, which made for kind of a weird pairing, but made me think that on a picnic, this specific pasta salad would be great with a side of smoked trout or salmon.

For variations, some additions that would be great: preserved lemon, finely chopped; crushed red pepper flakes or Aleppo-style pepper; feta or ricotta salata instead of parmesan. Another thing I will say, is that pasta salad really can soak up the ingredients in a way that can shock you. Adding more salt, pepper, lemon and olive oil will go a long way, but if you are feeling the need for more cheese or garlic, please go ahead! 

YIELD — 6 servings

 

Ingredients

  • 12–16 oz. short or small-ish pasta, such as cavatappi, small shells, rigatoni, fusilli 

  • Kosher salt

  • 1 garlic clove, finely grated 

  • 2 lemons, zested and juiced 

  • 1 bunch scallions, thinly sliced 

  • 1/3 cup olive oil 

  • Freshly ground black pepper 

  • 10–12 ounces snap peas, halved lengthwise 

  • 1–2 cups peas (fresh and blanched or frozen and thawed*

  • 4 oz. parmesan, pecorino or other hard, salty cheese, coarsely chopped 

  • 1–2 cups herbs, such as parsley, basil or tarragon 

  • 1–2 cups pea shoots, if available, parsley tender stems and leaves, if not 

    *for blanching fresh, I usually go 60–90 seconds, until they’re bright green and tender. For frozen, I simply cover them in hot water from the tap to quickly thaw.

Directions

1. Cook pasta in a large pot of salted, boiling water until al dente, or perhaps slightly past al dente, since this is the only time you’re cooking the pasta (i.e. it doesn’t go back into a skillet or anything). Drain, rinse with cool water and set aside. 

2. Meanwhile, combine lemon zest and juice, garlic, scallions, and ⅓ cup olive oil in a large bowl. Season with salt and pepper and add pasta (it’s okay if it’s still warm as long as it’s drained well), toss well to evenly coat all the pasta. 

3. Add snap peas, peas, parmesan, herbs and pea shoots (or more herbs) and toss to combine. Add more salt, lemon juice, black pepper or olive oil as needed (you may need more of all!).