The Greatest Creamed Greens

 

I think spinach is the perfect green here, but kale also works well (it never quite softens and melts down the way spinach does, but it still tastes amazing). Broccoli rabe is great if you’re into bitterness, but if that scares you, I don’t recommend it. Anyway, I’ve been making creamed greens like this for years and think this recipe is perfection— not too rich, still reminds you you’re eating greens. Be sure to cook the cream down so that it’s thicker than you think it ought to be, the greens will introduce a lot of liquid back into the equation no matter how much you’ve cooked out.

YIELD — 8–12 servings

 

Ingredients

  • ¾ cup freshly made coarse bread crumbs or panko (optional)

  • 2 tablespoons olive oil, plus more if using bread crumbs 

  • Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

  • 1 cup heavy cream

  • 4 garlic cloves, peeled and smashed

  • 1/8 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg (optional)

  • 2 large bunches spinach, kale, mustard greens, broccoli rabe, or swiss chard, thick stems removed, coarsely chopped (about 16 cups total)

  • ½ cup crème fraîche (optional)

Directions

1. If using bread crumbs, toss them in a small bowl with 3 tablespoons of olive oil and season with salt and pepper. Toast them in a large skillet over medium–high heat, tossing frequently until they’re well toasted and crisped, 3 to 5 minutes. Remove from the heat and set aside.

2. Bring the cream to a simmer in a medium pot over medium heat. Add the garlic and nutmeg if using, and season with salt and pepper. Simmer until reduced by about half, 15 to 20 minutes; it should be thick and very, very rich (it’ll dilute a bit once you add it to the greens).

3. Heat 2 tablespoons olive oil in a large Dutch oven over medium heat. Add the greens, a handful at a time, and season with salt and pepper. Cook, adding more greens when the ones in the pot wilt down. Stir frequently, until all the greens are bright green and the water starts to evaporate, 5 to 8 minutes, depending on the type of greens. Continue to cook until most of the water has evaporated and they’re totally tender and looking dry, another 5 minutes or so.

4. Add the cream mixture, season with salt and pepper, and mix to evenly coat everything in the thick, creamy business. Add crème fraiche if using. Cook a minute or two to make sure everything is hot before transferring to a bowl. Scatter with the bread crumbs, if using, and serve.